L20 Chicago - Molecular Gastronomy?

This past week, I tasked my good friend in Chicago with setting up a dinner to impress a group of local clients. The chosen venue was L20. After reading the unbelievably honorable national reviews, I was stoked to say the least. This fine establishment, located in Lincoln Park is considered by many to be one of the top restaurants IN THE WORLD. The room is unbelievable and the service, sickening. I almost felt elitist being waited on in this manner. Our table of eight came complete with it's own army of black-clad service folk and sommoliers. A waterfall babbled in the background and and the room, draped in elegance reminded me a bit of Asia De Cuba, New York's jewel of culinary fusion. I had already perused the menu on-line and knew exactly my strategic position here. It definitely involved the lamb tartar, with ebi (sweet shrimp) foam. As the food arrived and I dug in, a feeling of sickening disappointment came over me. It was the same feeling that a few previous explorations into molecular gastronomy had produced. The thing about this type of cooking is the subtle flavors and accents that are supposed to make up the soul of this style. But the problem was indentifyable from the very first bite. I absolutely, unabashedly require that my food come complete with layers and depth. I prefer dark flavors, accented with brightness and somewhere rooted in ancient culture. The food at L20? Scientific, beautiful, sterile, subtle, pretentious and........ SOUL-LESS! What a disappointment.

Milwaukee's Hinterland Gastropub

I was recently scolded by a friend for neglecting to post about this place. It was this past spring that some friends and I discovered this bastion of pleasantry as we strolled the streets of Milwaukee en route to a more well-known eatery. It was the "gastropub" sign that caught my eye. The gastropub movement is a recent one here in the states, but the concept is rooted in European culture. The idea is to pair artisanal, and sometimes local or regional beers and wines with modern pub fare in a warm and comfortable venue. You'll often find small plates and modern renditions of classic bar food (see pub burger) in such places. At this particular joint, the menu was loaded with gamey delights such as venison, quail, and bison and everything we sampled was delightful.  The room was cavernous and dimly lit by flickering candles, and was clad in warm, rich woods. It sounds classic, but actually it somehow felt very modern. The local brew list was impressive too, as Milwaukee's history is deeply rooted in the art of the brew. I must say, I've been nothing if not surprised by this city's progressive, European feel. This town has done an admirable job of marrying it's old-world infrastructure with the littany of shiny, modern residential buildings that have cropped up in recent times. I think I like this place and I definitely recommend Hinterland as a place to get you nosh on as you either start or finish your evening.

http://www.hinterlandbeer.com/restaurantmilwaukee.shtml

GQ Rumours and The Patterson House

First order of business: Congrats Nashville. You made GQ's top ten list of drinking cities. Thanks to our friends at Grimey's for scanning the article: http://www.thebasementnashville.com/gq.pdf

Last evening we decided to dinner hop. We would start out at Rumours East in one of our favorite hoods, East Nashville. The plan was to drive to the East Side, have a glass of wine and a couple of small plates, then drive across the river to mid-town.

Rumours East just might have the best patio in the city. The wine list is impressive as expected and the array of tapas-sized offerings is also nice. We dined on watermelon salad and a wonderful cheese plate as the sun set and a cool breeze blew in. This is a great place to either start or finish your night, and our waiter knew this was just the beginning for us. When he asked where we were off to next, I responded "The Patterson House". His eyes grew wide and he could barely contain his excitement as he lamented over being bound to his table-tending responsibilites . "My favorite place" he smiled "Damn I wish I could join you."

The Patterson House quietly opened it's doors this spring on Division Street in the stately old house that is the former home of Patrick's and Edisto.  I was beginning to think this just might be a cursed venue before this joint's rave reviews began to accumulate. Believe me, the review's are well-deserved. Upon entrance, you're greeted, carded and escorted through a veiled doorway into the dark, rich and sophisticated main bar room. We were seated at the huge bar that is the obvious main attraction here. If you've ever felt an aversion to paying eleven bucks for a drink; Get over it. I started with a Blinker. It's a bourbon and grapefruit concoction tamed with housemade bitters and rasberry syrup. It was easily the most amazing mixed drink I've EVER put to my lips. The layers of flavors blew me away and the precision with which the barstuds do their thing is unbelieveable. Did I mention the food? The chef is an alumnus of Fat Duck in London and Craft in NYC, and trust me, this ISN'T your everyday bar food. What it IS, is amazing. Confit of chicken wing, Shrimp Corndogs with curry ketchup, Black-Eyed Pea Hummus, and the already legendary ELVIS. (peanut butter, banana and bacon panini?!)  Don't wait to check this place out.

http://www.rumourseast.com/
http://www.thepattersonhousenashville.com/